Middle Section for Time of the Doctor Scarf
I recently knit Tess Campbell’s Time of the Doctor Scarf and added a middle section for it. This shows both the front and the back.
The link to the charts for this can be found here. This presumes a previous knowledge of double knitting techniques. There are a number of good resources available to learn from on the internet.
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As per usual, I don’t own the copyright to these images. This is an homage. Please don’t sell the charts or the products made from them.
Variations on a Plain Ol’ Sock
Here’s a copy of my FREE pattern for my standard and adaptive knit socks.
Variations on a Plain Ol’ Sock
50g sock yarn per sock, size US1 needles (I prefer mgic loop, but two circulars or DPNs would work), optional US-F crochet hook, stitch markers, progress keeper (to make beginning of row)
(Shown with Option 1 and Option 3)
Option 1: Crew Sock
CO 64 (I use a crochet hook as with a provisional cast on but directly onto the needle. IMO it gives a nicer finish. Any stretchy CO will work).
Cuff:
Work 2×2 rib for 15 rows.
Leg:
Knit even for 56 rows (a pattern of lace or cable would be lovely on this. Also, if you are striping two or more yarns, using self-striping or a heavily variegated yarn, let the yarn speak for itself!).
Heel Flap:
Rep the following 2 rows for a total of 32 rows:
Row 1: (Sl st, K) across
Row 2: Sl st, purl across
Heel Turn:
R1: Knit 18, ssk, K1, TURN
R2: Sl St, P5, p2tog, P1
R3: Sl st, K6, ssk, K1
R4: Sl St, P7, p2tog, P1
R5: Sl st, K8, ssk, K1
Continue as established until all stitches on the heel are worked and you have 18-20 heel stitches left.
Gusset:
Set up: Pick up and knit (17 if you had 18 sts left at the end of the turning, 16 if you had 20), work even across inseam, pick up and knit same number of stitches as first side. Place markers as needed to keep track of additional stitches.
Rep the following 2 rows a total of 22 times:
Row 1: K to last 3 sts before inseam. K2tog, k1, work inseam sts in pattern, k1, ssk, k to EOR.
Row 2: K around.
Foot:
Work Inseam stitches in pattern, K sole stitches (32 inseam stitches, 32 sole stitches) to approx 1.5” from desired end of sock. Mine works out to 37 rows.
Toe:
Rep the following 2 rows until you have 8 stitches on both the top and sole needles:
Row 1: *K1, ssk, knit to three sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Rep from * once more.
Row 2: K around.
Use Kitchener stitch to graft the final eight stitches on each needle together.
Option 2: Shortie Sock
CO 64 (I use a crochet hook as with a provisional cast on but directly onto the needle. IMO it gives a nicer finish. Any stretchy CO will work).
Cuff:
Work 2×2 rib for 15 rows.
Leg:
Knit even for 2 rows.
Heel Flap:
Rep the following 2 rows for a total of 32 rows:
Row 1: (Sl st, K) across
Row 2: Sl st, purl across
Heel Turn:
R1: Knit 18, ssk, K1, TURN
R2: Sl St, P5, p2tog, P1
R3: Sl st, K6, ssk, K1
R4: Sl St, P7, p2tog, P1
R5: Sl st, K8, ssk, K1
Continue as established until all stitches on the heel are worked and you have 18-20 heel stitches left.
Gusset:
Set up: Pick up and knit (17 if you had 18 sts left at the end of the turning, 16 if you had 20), work even across inseam, pick up and knit same number of stitches as first side. Place markers as needed to keep track of additional stitches.
Rep the following 2 rows a total of 22 times:
Row 1: K to last 3 sts before inseam. K2tog, k1, work inseam sts in pattern, k1, ssk, k to EOR.
Row 2: K around.
Foot:
Work Inseam stitches in pattern, K sole stitches (32 inseam stitches, 32 sole stitches) to approx 1.5” from desired end of sock. Mine works out to 37 rows.
Toe:
Rep the following 2 rows until you have 8 stitches on both the top and sole needles:
Row 1: *K1, ssk, knit to three sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Rep from * once more.
Row 2: K around.
Use Kitchener stitch to graft the final eight stitches on each needle together.
Option 3: Adaptive Crew Sock for MY Amputation
(Note: This fits MY residual limb. Your mileage may vary. You may need to add or subtract rows to make this fit.)
CO 64 (I use a crochet hook as with a provisional cast on but directly onto the needle. IMO it gives a nicer finish. Any stretchy CO will work).
Cuff:
Work 2×2 rib for 15 rows.
Leg:
Knit even for 56 rows (a pattern of lace or cable would be lovely on this. Also, if you are striping two or more yarns, using self-striping or a heavily variegated yarn, let the yarn speak for itself!).
Heel Flap:
Rep the following 2 rows for a total of 32 rows:
Row 1: (Sl st, K) across
Row 2: Sl st, purl across
Heel Turn:
R1: Knit 18, ssk, K1, TURN
R2: Sl St, P5, p2tog, P1
R3: Sl st, K6, ssk, K1
R4: Sl St, P7, p2tog, P1
R5: Sl st, K8, ssk, K1
Continue as established until all stitches on the heel are worked and you have 18-20 heel stitches left.
Gusset:
Set up: Pick up and knit (17 if you had 18 sts left at the end of the turning, 16 if you had 20), work even across inseam, pick up and knit same number of stitches as first side. Place markers as needed to keep track of additional stitches.
Rep the following 2 rows a total of 22 times:
Row 1: K to last 3 sts before inseam. K2tog, k1, work inseam sts in pattern, k1, ssk, k to EOR.
Row 2: K around.
Foot:
Work Inseam stitches in pattern, K sole stitches (32 inseam stitches, 32 sole stitches) to approx 1.5” from desired end of sock. Mine works out to 13 rows.
Toe:
Rep the following row 8 times:
Row 1: *K1, ssk, knit to three sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Rep from * once more.
Use Kitchener stitch to graft the final eight stitches on each needle together.
Option 4: Adaptive Shortie Sock for MY Amputation
(Note: This fits MY residual limb. Your mileage may vary. You may need to add or subtract rows to make this fit.)
CO 64 (I use a crochet hook as with a provisional cast on but directly onto the needle. IMO it gives a nicer finish. Any stretchy CO will work).
Cuff:
Work 2×2 rib for 15 rows.
Leg:
Knit even for 2 rows.
Heel Flap:
Rep the following 2 rows for a total of 32 rows:
Row 1: (Sl st, K) across
Row 2: Sl st, purl across
Heel Turn:
R1: Knit 18, ssk, K1, TURN
R2: Sl St, P5, p2tog, P1
R3: Sl st, K6, ssk, K1
R4: Sl St, P7, p2tog, P1
R5: Sl st, K8, ssk, K1
Continue as established until all stitches on the heel are worked and you have 18-20 heel stitches left.
Gusset:
Set up: Pick up and knit (17 if you had 18 sts left at the end of the turning, 16 if you had 20), work even across inseam, pick up and knit same number of stitches as first side. Place markers as needed to keep track of additional stitches.
Rep the following 2 rows a total of 22 times:
Row 1: K to last 3 sts before inseam. K2tog, k1, work inseam sts in pattern, k1, ssk, k to EOR.
Row 2: K around.
Foot:
Work Inseam stitches in pattern, K sole stitches (32 inseam stitches, 32 sole stitches) to approx 1.5” from desired end of sock. Mine works out to 13 rows.
Toe:
Rep the following row 8 times:
Row 1: *K1, ssk, knit to three sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Rep from * once more.
Use Kitchener stitch to graft the final eight stitches on each needle together.
Peacock Afghan Block
This is a chart I have designed for my newest Pagan afghan.
Enjoy!
Welsh Leaves Cowl
This is a cowl I designed for an upcoming trip to Wales. The lace creates a beautiful climbing leaves motif.
Pattern is available here:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/welsh-leaves-cowl
or
https://www.etsy.com/listing/522400571/knitting-pattern-for-welsh-leaves-cowl?ref=shop_home_active_1
“Inner Beauty” Crocheted Afghan Chart
“Tale as old as time, song as old as rhyme: Beauty and the Beast.”
I used a G Hook, 32 ounces of black, and a variety of scraps for this afghan
Chain 150, and follow the chart below. Edge with your favorite border.
This is my finished afghan:
I don’t own the rights to the Beauty and the Beast, Disney, or its images. Respect the copyright of the owner. This is an homage.
Pagan Dreamcatcher Afghan
Pagan Dreamcatcher Crocheted Afghan
I used a G Hook, 1 skein of Red Heart Soft White, and a variety of scrapsfor this afghan
Chain 150, and follow the chart below. The pink background is all scrap. (Try to make sure the background color isn’t too light so the white “pops.”)
This is my finished afghan:
Please feel free to make, give away, or sell as many of these finished projects as you’d like. But don’t sell my pattern. Please.
Bring on the Rain(bow) Crocheted Afghan
“Tomorrow’s another day, and I’m thirsty anyway, so bring on the rain.”
I used a G Hook, 4 skeins of Vanna’s Choice Dark Heather Grey, 1 skein of Vanna’s Choice White, and a variety of scrapsfor this afghan
This one’s done a little differently from the others I’ve done. This one is done along the vertical axis to make the “rain” look like it’s falling. Also, this afghan is done with the intarsia technique. Don’t carry the unused yarn.
Chain 200, and follow the chart below. The orange section is scrap, and the white and black sections are done with white and dark heather grey, respectively. Edge with your favorite border.
This is my finished afghan:
Please feel free to make, give away, or sell as many of these finished projects as you’d like. But don’t sell my pattern. Please.
“Silence Will Fall” Crocheted Afghan
Silence Will Fall – Dr. Who Inspired Crochet Afghan
I used a G Hook, 24 ounces of black, and a variety of scraps for this afghan
Chain 150, and follow the chart below. Edge with your favorite border.
This is my finished afghan:
I don’t own the rights to the Silence, Dr. Who, the BBC, or its images. Respect the copyright of the owner. This is an homage.
“Part of Your World” Crocheted Afghan
“Look at this stuff; isn’t it neat?”
I used a G Hook, 24 ounces of black, and a variety of scraps in shades of blue for this afghan
Chain 150, and follow the chart below. Edge with your favorite border.
This is my finished afghan:
I don’t own the rights to the Little Mermaid, Disney, or its images. Respect the copyright of the owner. This is an homage.
Something in the Wind Crocheted Afghan
“I sense there’s something in the wind…”
I used a G Hook, 12 skeins of Vanna’s Choice Dark Grey Heather and 6 skeins of Deborah Norville Everyday in Lagoon.
Chain 150, and follow the chart below. Edge with your favorite border.
This is my finished afghan:
I don’t own the rights to Nightmare Before Christmas or its images. Respect the copyright of the owner. This is an homage.
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